Classic Blackened Catfish

The Story

Blackening was codified by Paul Prudhomme in the 1980s at Commander's Palace, and it changed American cooking. The principle is simple: coat fish in a spice blend heavy on paprika and cayenne, drop it into cast iron that has been preheated beyond reason, and let the blend carbonize into a crust that is simultaneously burned and flavored. Hammer was built for this technique. The move that takes it from classic to definitive is what happens after the fish comes out: a fast brown butter with capers and lemon built in the same skillet, using the blackened fond as part of the sauce.

Instructions

1. The Setup. Heat a dry cast iron skillet over the highest heat available for 10 minutes, until it begins to grey. This is best done on an outdoor burner or grill side burner. The smoke is real. Keep the catfish cold in the refrigerator until the moment you brush and season it — a warming fillet starts to sweat, and surface moisture kills crust.
2. Blacken the Fish. Brush the catfish fillets on both sides with clarified butter or ghee. Coat heavily with Hammer Blend, pressing it in so it fully adheres. The butter goes on the fish, not the pan. Lay the fillets into the dry skillet and do not move them for 3 to 4 minutes. Flip once. Cook another 2 to 3 minutes, until the crust is nearly black and the fish flexes at the thin edge.
3. Build the Pan Sauce. Transfer the fish to a warm plate and rest 3 minutes. Drop the heat to medium. Add unsalted butter to the same skillet and let it brown for 60 to 90 seconds, scraping up the blackened fond. Add capers and let them pop in the butter, then squeeze in the juice of half the lemon. Stir once and pull the pan off the heat.
4. Serve. Spoon the brown butter, caper, and lemon sauce over the catfish. Finish with chopped parsley and serve with dirty rice and the remaining lemon on the side. The sauce should catch the crust rather than soften it.

Pro Tips

• Ventilation is not optional. Open every window or cook outside — blackening is a side-burner technique for a reason.
• If the crust comes out stained instead of carbonized, the pan lost heat when the fish hit it. Preheat longer next time.
• Do not poke the fillet with a thermometer unless you absolutely have to. Read the fish by the thin edge — when it flexes and starts to separate, it's done.